Introduction: Polyhedron Light Shade

I've always been fascinated by polyhedra. As a tyke I remember edifice paper models of Platonic solids with their superposable, regular, polygonal faces. (For the gain of younger readers, at that place was no internet in those years, we had to make our own amusement.) Just sometimes a little irregularity adds to the charm, which is where Catalan solids come in. Named after the 19th Century Belgian mathematician Eugène Catalan, these polyhedra own identical, but non-regular, polygonal faces.

In conclusion year I started using the CAD/Cam River package Fusion 360 and modelled different Catalan solids as a learning employment, including 2 of the hexecontahedrons (60-sided solids). They reminded me of something, particularly the pentagonal hexecontahedron. It took me a while to realise that its geometry is – I conceive – the basis of a light tone I've admired awhile. The tone in question, called Coral, is by the New Zealand based (but British whelped) interior designer David Trubridge. Inspired by his work, I decided to do a laser-cut plywood shade based on some other 60-sided Catalan undiversified, the deltoidal hexecontahedron.

If you want to understand how I designed this light shade, or reach your ain victimization otherwise shaped plywood pieces, or even one based along a different polyhedron, and so you'll need to show through all the steps. But if you just want to construct one of the synoptic type, then jump to Step 3 where you bum download the DXF vector file or PDF for the unit put together (I'll call this an "element") that's based on a deltoid, a kite-shaped polygon. And then implore or hire time happening a laser cutter to gain the job of producing 60 plyboard elements quick and simplified, or cut them past hand if you have the patience. You could perhaps make them from polypropene sheet surgery boney card instead of plywood to make excision by manus easier, and get together them using brads surgery newspaper fasteners, then again you'd need to habit a very low wattage LED electric light.

We set out by creating a virtual, 3D model of a deltoidal hexecontahedron, with its 60 identical kite-attribute faces and 62 vertices. Then we create an interesting shape based along the geometry of a single nerve. When 60 of these elements are joined in collaboration at the same vertices atomic number 3 the inherent polygon, a grille-work lampshade is produced that will sink in the light and produce newsworthy patterns in the room.

Supplies

You'll need:

  • a tack of "air" ply, no much active 1.5mm thick. An area of about 0.9m² is necessary for a 400mm diameter polyhedron (actual size required will depend on the dimensions of the optical maser carver eff).
  • 62-66 white/natural nylon M3 nuts and bolts, at least 12mm long and preferably with a hex or pan out head – preceptor't get recessed heads.
  • access to a optical maser tender – without one, you'll demand a coping saw or a bandsaw, a 3mm drill bit and a raft of patience!
  • a sharp knife
  • telegraph-slip plyers
  • pliable paint suitable for wood and a mini paint roller (optional)
  • a nylon filter out relief cable gland sized to suit your pendant fitting flex (also optional). I bought a PG7 gland for my 6mm diameter flex, similar to this.

Aviation ply is thin but surprisingly strong – it's sol called because biplanes were made from information technology in the early days of aviation and it's still in use by modelling level enthusiasts. I used a 3-ply Finnish birch from James Latham that's nominally 1.5mm thick but actually measures more like 1.65mm. They supply even dilutant birch ply, down to well below 1mm. Choose a high grade ply that's free from defects so much as knots that could crack when IT's bent.

Step 1: Moulding a Deltoidal Hexecontahedron

A deltoidal hexecontahedron has 60 very faces, each face being a deltoid (kite) with the ratio of short to long sides of 1:(7 + √5)/6 (approx. 1:1.539). The angle between the two light sides is 118.267°, the angle between the two long sides is 67.783° and the remaining two angles (between a short and a long side) are 86.974°. The dihedral angle (the lean against between any two faces) of the polyhedron is 154.12°.

I modelled my polyhedron in Nuclear fusion reaction 360 (which is free for hobbyists, students and educators) as below – information technology South Korean won't be identical different in other CAD packages. Refer to the screenshots for guidance, but a basic familiarity with Fusion 360 is assumed.

  1. In the Design workspace, create a vignette in the X-Y plane and hook a 4-sided kite shape, adding constraints to pee both short sides the aforesaid length. Do the same with the pair of long sides. Position the kite such that the long aslope down the centre is on the Y axis, and draw that diagonal As a building line.

  2. Now make use of this Rechner online calculator to cipher what length the pair of longsighted sides should beryllium. Insert the required radius of the finished light shade as the midsphere radius – 200 in my case - murder Calculate, reach a musical note of the long edge size and then proportion the sketch accordingly. (The midsphere is the empyrean to which every edge of the polyhedron is tan. The finished spoke won't be incisively the midsphere radius, but close enough.) Property a curtal adjoin too, again using the figure from the estimator.

  3. Make the angle 'tween the deuce short sides 118.267°. (If the kite fles had become a concave deltoid, that should sort it unsuccessful.) Check that the other angles are then as they should be (see above).

  4. Now we need to shoes the full point connected the sloping that will lie along the surface of the insphere, which is the sphere that just fits within the polyhedron, moving every side. We know from the online calculator what the radius of that welki is, 194.922 in my display case, and fortunately the midsphere and the insphere are concentric for this polyhedron. That means that at that place is a right angular triangle whose hypotenuse is the midsphere radius and some other side is the insphere radius. The third side is the line we're about to draw, from the steer where the insphere touches the face pertinent where the midsphere touches a side. Its length can, naturally, be calculated using Pythagoras's theorem. Place a random point (not at the centre) on the diagonal. Let's call it point A. Cast a construction line from point A that is English-Gothic architecture to a long side of the kite, and attribute information technology to be √(midsphere r squared - insphere radius squared). Finish the sketch.

  5. Create a spic-and-span sketch in the Y-Z plane and Project steer A and the two corners at the ends of the diagonal into it. Cast a vertical mental synthesis line upwardl from point A. Attribute the duration of this line to the insphere wheel spoke from the online calculator. (The point at the top of this line is the centre of the insphere.) Pull construction lines from the insphere concentrate to the corners at each terminate of the fundamental diagonal. Finish the sketch.

  6. Create a body by Lofting the kite visibility, choosing the centre of the insphere as the indorse visibility and Center line as the guide type.

  7. Change from the Solid to the Surface tab and Unstitch the new consistence before deleting its 4 triangular faces to leave good the kite-shaped incomparable. Past return to the Unbroken tab.

  8. Make up a Circular Pattern of the kite face, selecting the line from its constrictive corner to the insphere centre point equally the axis. Make the radiation pattern of 5 kites including the original one, through the full 360°. They should fit together perfectly to make a classify of an umbrella shape.

  9. The fraught hexecontahedron is ready-made of 12 such umbrellas. Make an extra 2 by patterning the first one more or less the insphere radius from the widest street corner of the original kite shape – the opposite oddment of its centre line from the first pattern axis. This meter the quantity is 3, non 5.

  10. We require to model twice more to get under one's skin completely 60 faces, but to set that we must draw in two more axes for the patterning. Create a new sketch in the Y-Z plane and Project the insphere middle point into it. Then turn off the visibility of the first 2 sketches, to avoid confusion. Run in the 2 necessary axes atomic number 3 construction lines, as shown in the screenshot – one ends at the juncture 'tween 2 umbrellas, the other at the wide corner of a kite on the opposite lateral. The second line is out of the plane of the sketch and must therefore be created American Samoa a 3D sketch past first drawing a argumentation from the midpoint of the insphere to a random point in the sketch airplane and then playacting a point-to-distributor point move out to relocate that point in time to where it needs to Be. Wind up the study.

  11. Create a 4th umbrella away patterning one of those close to the start radical axis around information technology, choosing quantity 3 but supressing one of the two copies to invalidate duplicate. See screenshot whch shows the umbrella that is to be patterned and the axis in blue. Now we accept 4 umbrellas and 20 faces.

  12. The net pattern is of every last 20 existing faces, round the second of the freshly-created axes, with measure 3 and zero suppression. The end result is a deltoidal hexecontahedron shell.

Step 2: Artful the Light Within Tone Element

Now for the fun split up, designing an element supported the kite. A flat kite-shaped put together of plywood can't cost bent in two directions to make a global spook. Rather, a somewhat spindly shape needs to be created, with legs that leave flex. The holes for assembly will constitute centred on the four corners of the kite, which means the legs necessitate to broaden a close agency beyond the corners.

  1. Turn murder the visibility of everything, sketches and bodies. Make a rising survey in the X-Y skim and Project the 4 corners of the kite into it. We're going to design the ingredient in this sketch. Start away drawing in the sides of the kite and its diagonals as expression lines.
  2. A good place to start is by Offsetting lines either side of both diagonals and then rounding the ends with the Taenia puppet. You could make your shape curvy like mine, or straight-sided, just sharp intimate corners are best avoided because the plywood testament likely crack there when it's bent into its 3D form. The first screenshot shows a simple-minded cross-shaped constituent which has past had unwished lines removed, internal corners radiused (with the Fillet tool) and holes added for assembly in the secondment screenshot. (In reality, this cross shape mightiness represent unfit in most materials – information technology could be too spindly and nonexempt to bump when forced into a 3D curve.) Experimentation with different designs, the element doesn't even need to be symmetrical.
  3. To get an idea of what an element you've drawn will look like as a ghost, delete any screw holes or other holes over the corner points before finishing the new sketch - you'll lose one of the pattern axes if you preceptor't. Then move the sketch back in the timeline to straightaway after the foremost sketch that contains the kite. Roll the History Marker hindmost to that head, just subsequently the unexampled sketch, and create a new body aside Extruding the element's profile upwards (ie away from the centre of the polyhedron) by 0.05mm. Modify its appearance to a pale coloured wood to mime plywood, and so roll the History Marker fully forwards and edit the first doughnut-shaped pattern to select the new body Eastern Samoa the pattern type rather of the original kite profile. Repeat for the remaining three circular patterns. The third screenshot shows the result for the simple cross shape. Call up, the actualised light shade will be less pointy, more ball-shaped, because the tips of adjoining elements are held apartment against each other where they're fastened together.
  4. You can also die off into the Render workspace in Nuclear fusion 360 to model the final contrive and get an even better impression of how it will look. The 5th video in this step is a rendered image of the design I successful victimization the curvy shape with a central hole in the 4th picture, and looks very like the actual fooling shade (6th picture). The 7th visualise is a rendering of an asymmetric, curvy design painted white happening the inside surfaces.

When you have a shape you're happy with, add the 4 assembly holes centered on the four corners of the kite.

Finally, create a vector file (SVG or DXF) of the shape if you intend to laser cut the elements, or photographic print it every bit a 1:1 graduated table PDF if you're going away to cut information technology by hand. In Fusion 360 you powerful penetrate on the sketch in the browser and select Save As DXF. (This method of creating a DXF file still works for those with a Personal Function license eve after the recent changes.) For a PDF you'll call for to select the appropriate trunk, then change to the Drawing workspace to make over a drawing from it before using File, Black and white to print that drawing.

Step 3: Resizing And/or Ra-shaping the Kite Element

I know from my Fusion 360 poser, the online deltoidal hexecontahedron reckoner and from measuring the finished article, that a kite-based chemical element of the dimensions shown in the PDF attached to this measure will produce a sphere of approximately 38cm diam. (Niobium. This is a little littler than the 40cm diameter polyhedron modelled in Step out 1.) This kite has long sides that are 107.886 millimeter longsighted and short sides of 70.086mm (measure from the centre of the hole in to each one leg of the element). To scale up or down, all you need to do is reproduce by the relevant factor. For instance, say you need a 50cm diameter shade instead, then the dimensions of the kite need to be:

long side = 107.886mm x 50/40 = 134.858mm

short side = 70.086mm x 50/40 = 87.608mm

(Edit: The denominator in the in a higher place equations should of flow be 38, not 40.)

If you'd rather not arrange the maths, you can produce a welki of whatever size you wish using the online calculator to calculate the kite's dimensions – just enter half the coveted diam as the "midsphere radius" and that will represent close decent. (The assembled shade will curve itself into a near-spherical mold rather than staying polyhedral with flat faces, and so the size up testament glucinium approximate.)

Keep in mind the weight of the finished lamp shadiness, particularly when resizing or re-designing the element. My 38cm diameter plywood shade weighs close to 350g (12oz), including the weight of the nylon nuts and bolts. The strength of the electrical flex isn't likely to be a problem for bigger shades as even a slim 0.5mm² twist nates carry 2kg, but the ceiling rose, and potentially the lampholder too, will need to have intrinsical strain relief, and the ceiling chromatic should be screwed to a joist or some other firm holdfast, not just gypsum board.

Also, consider the hypothesis of the ghost acquiring too hot if you reduce its size. Observe the risk to a borderline away victimisation a low wattage LED bulb and, if essential, positioning the bulb in the centre of the shade rather than near the top – see Pace 8. Another effect with a small shade is that the individual elements need to curve more tightly at the ends of their legs where they are bolted together, and consequently there will be a size below which even light plywood is insufficiently flexible.

Lastly, you may pauperization to re-size the assembly holes if you aren't able to root worthy 3mm (M3 – that's or so 1/8") nylon bolts or other fasteners. Ideally, buy your bolts before you foreshorten the pieces and check the hole size you're planning to purpose is suitable by optical maser-cutting (or drilling, if that's what you will do) a examination hole first of all. You want a little headway, but not sol much that the joints are sloppy. The holes in the attached DXF file are 3.0mm diameter, but they total out somewhat larger because of the laser cutter's kerf (width of the cut). This size worked thin with my M3 bolts but English hawthorn not personify right for all nominally M3 fasteners, nor for every laser top executive and quicken settings.

To hit a unchaste shade like mine, founded on a curvy component with a central hole, import the attached DXF file into Merger 360 (use the Upload command in the Information Panel) operating theater other suitable software and tweak it as required. Surgery for a hand-cut version, adjust the impression exfoliation of the PDF to give the sized you deprivation.

Footmark 4: Preparing to Cut

You should straight off have a vector filing cabinet of the component you are active to cut, either one that you have designed yourself or the DXF downloaded from the previous tone, resized if necessary. As an alternative, black and white out the PDF from the previous step and employment it as a templet to cut the elements away hand. Perform a trial run foreshorten, with the physical body orientated on a piece of plywood much that the direction of maximum flex is parallel to the short axis vertebra of the kite, ie the line between the two go with legs. This will minimise the chance of cracking.

Assuming your sheet of plywood has been rolled up and therefore has a tendency to curve in a particular room, ballad it connected the laser pinnace bottom such that the inside of the curve (which will be the inside of the shade) is the side that will suffer Thomas More from char marks during cutting. You may call for to tape the plywood down if it wants to curve. Alternatively, I've found that using a steam iron along a wool setting is an effective way of flattening aviation ply – public press it for a minute aroun on both sides with plenty of steam then lay it with the concave face downwardly and place a weight in the middle to keep off it flat while it dries and cools.

After cutting a single constituent, check that it can glucinium bent gently in two directions into part of a spherical superficial of approximately the right radius - plastic it finished a bent knee kit and caboodle well. To be connected the riskless side, you may wish to cut five first and link up them into an "umbrella" – go through Step 7 - to test whether the plyboard you are exploitation will work. If it's too stiff, Oregon it breaks, you'll either need to notic an alternative corporal or apply whatsoever steam to hold IT more flexible.

To understate wastage, architectural plan the layout of multiple elements on rectangles of plywood that will fit onto the have it away of the laser cutter. The long median axis of each one should run English-Gothic to the direction of greatest bendiness. I found that with a 600mm x 300mm (2ft x 1ft) bed I could primed the greatest number (13) onto to each one sheet of that size if I orientated them with the long central axis parallel to the short sides of the rectangle, so I cut up my large sheet of plywood accordingly. It cut using a Stanley knife run against a straight edge, although IT did need several passes of the knife to cut right through and through.

To get the almost efficient layout, you can position individual elements in whatever Heel system you use up, or manipulation unconfined nesting software so much as Deepnest or Nesting Center, or simply draw around the test element you punctured dead onto a sheet of paper the same size as the laser hit the hay. Recollect to provid twice the kerf thickness between any two elements.

The bigger the hump of the laser cutter, the less wastage in that respect will be. I cut 13 elements from each of five 550mm x 300mm pieces of plywood, giving a total area of 0.825m². This gave ME 5 extra in case of breaking, although none actually broke. I started with a 1,530mm x 1,530mm tack, plenty for 2 38cm diameter lamp shades.

I evoke stinging a upper limit of 55 elements until you have decided how the shade will be attached to the pendant nonfat fitting – see Step 8. If you want it to hang so that it's symmetrical, and/operating room you want the bulb to be in the centre kinda than towards the top, then the final 5 elements will need to be modified to go with a spider.

Step 5: Cutting

Set up the optical maser cutter's software to scratch out all the bolt holes and past the central voids before unwinding along to cut around the outlines. Make sure you lay the plyboard on the bed the right side up, so that any burn Marks will get on the inside of the specter (and so fewer obvious, even if you're not going to key the inside). Cut the elements, retaining the "negatives" (ie what's left of each kip down-human-sized sheet of ply) because they may be useful when you come to paint or stain the elements.

With a barely damp cloth, wipe round the edge (including the edge in of the of import void) of apiece element to remove the sooty residue. If there are any smudges on the level surfaces, they rear end be abstracted with a rubber, Beaver State by light sanding, simply that is best done after house painting because sanding will also beryllium needed to remove any paint that's in the wrong place.

Step 6: Painting

There's no real pauperism to paint the inside of the shade, but doing so covers up some scorch First Baron Marks of Broughton from the laser and - assuming you use white or another pale colour – helps to bounce the light close to. It would look pretty cool to blusher the inside a glimmery or dramatic colour that goes with the décor of the room.

As an alternative, you could stain the international turn up of each element a darker coloration.

Dependant on how thick the paint you are using is, the easiest method of applying colour power be to place the elements back in the "negative" sheet from which they were cut, then use a mini roller over the whole sheet. Having them sitting inside their outlines way they go down around less and consequently there's less chance of getting paint or woodstain on the underside. Withal, if the paint is quite thick, the elements will stick the roller and lift come out of position. That happened with me and I had more succeeder picking up each combined successively and painting information technology using a effervesce "brush".

I used a flexible paint from Wickes that's meant for use along ceilings and plasterboard walls that could move a bit. It's called (no prizes for guessing this) Spinnbar Paint and only comes in brilliant white, but it could possibly comprise tinted using artists' acrylate resin paint – you'll motive to experiment if you want to go down that route. Other, the safest option would be to use a defile or several coats of watered-down emulsion that will inebriate into the surface of the wood rather than lying on the surface, because a layer of characterless paint leave most likely crack Beaver State flake inactive when you come to assemble the shade and force the matte plywood elements into a curve. But make up cautious nigh over-wetting the plywood in case you causal agency the layers to separate or raise the grain.

After house painting, you'll probably involve to clean paint from the edges here and there using a stab or fine sandpaper. If this results in the dark, scorched coloring material disappearance in places then it can be touched up with a permanent marker pen OR artists' acrylic blusher mixed to match the color.

Step 7: Assembly

A deltoidal hexecontahedron has 12 vertices at which 5 faces sum, 30 at which 4 join and 20 at which 3 join. The 5-face vertices are at the narrow corner of the kite where the two long sides meet, the 3-typeface ones at the wide corner where the two short sides meet and the 4-typeface ones the other, medium-angle corners. As luck would have it, you don't really motivation to think about this when assembling it, just move As follows.

  1. Cut the bolts to length. Place a single make off through 4 pieces of scrap ply operating theatre elements – don't worry about which hole in each to use, you're right practical away how thick 5 layers are. Put on a washer to give a little clearance if you have ace, or if not a sheet of thick paper, then a nut (rather a steel one). Doll up the crank just brusque of finger tight so that the 4 bits of plywood can be fanned out and rotated individually around the bolt. Then home a 5th one on the deadbolt, on top of the nut. Cut off the surplus piece of bolt flush with the surface of the plywood using sharp side-cutters Beaver State end-cutters. Take off the pinnacle element and undo the egg, which should clear up some minor hurt to the thread. Cut another 11 bolts to the same duration (or just 10 more if you're using a 5-legged spider), again with nuts on them. Past do the same with 30 bolts of the right length to follow through 4 layers of ply and 20 for 3 layers. For a spider, you'll also need 5 bolts to follow through 2 layers. Keep each group in a separate pile.
  2. Join the remnant of the long leg (equivalent to the narrow corner) of from each one of 5 elements together with a bolt of the right length, doing up the Nut finger tight. The nut should be happening the inside, the rigidly headway on the out-of-door, unless you deprivation to make a feature of the loopy. Place a 4-layer bolt through the hole in united of the side legs of an element (equivalent to the medium corner) and so done the nigh side leg of the factor next to that. Cod a nut but leave it very loose, you're releas to equal undoing it again presently. Make the same with another three pairs of side legs. When you come to the final pair, there leave be a gap betwixt the abscond holes. You need to gently sweet-talk this comprehensive-like assembly of 5 elements into a concave bowl shape, to take the bolt out holes together. A second pair of hands will be utilizable, and a former of some sort – I utilised my stifle. If you're afraid of break the plywood, try steaming the assembly over a kettle for few minutes to have it to a greater extent flexible.
  3. Repeat for another 10 groups of 5 elements. Now there are eleven umbrellas.
  4. Working with 6 umbrellas, 5 of them need to surround a central cardinal. Start by bolting 3 umbrellas together using the hole in one middle leg (the hole at the all-encompassing recession of the kite) from each of them and a 3-level gobble, doing up the nut finger stingy. Then connect the English legs jointly on each side of this new junction, using the bolts that already control the central comprehensive together. Mold around the remaining sides of the central umbrella, joining 3 more to it, and to their neighbours, in the unvaried way. Atomic number 3 you add the quaternary element to each join that has a 4-layer bolt, execute up that nut thumb tight. When you get to the last junction, you should find that this meeting place of 30 elements is approximately subfigure.
  5. Work around the bound of the cerebral hemisphere adding the remaining 5 umbrellas. As before, the middle legs join only to other halfway legs in groups of three while the side legs of apiece shape bring together to the incline legs of the adjacent shape and to the junction of two position legs in the already-completed cerebral hemisphere.

With 11 umbrellas (55 elements) connected together, you should still be able-bodied to get your hand inside holding a light bulb. Check wholly the nuts are sufficiently pissed. And then insert the lampholder from the outside through the central void in uncomparable of the elements. (Nota bene. This will only work with a standard UK 29mm diameter lampholder. Go through next ill-use if yours is a different size.) Fit the lamp shade servant ring from interior the sphere to check it in place on the lampholder, so insert the bulb.

If you're happy with the appearance of the lit shade suspended in that way, then break ahead and cut another 5 elements and apply them to close the sphere. It should be just possible to apply a nut in situ with the index finger of one hand, inserted through a crack in the celestial sphere, while doing leading the screw along the outside with the other hand. Simply if you'd rather that there was a vertical axis of motion symmetry, or your lampholder is a different size up, or you want the bulb to be in the centre of the sphere, then attend the next step.

Step out 8: Alternative Suspension Arrangements

In the previous whole tone I explained how to suspend the shade aside treating the central void of one of the elements as if it were the ring connected a lamp shade that fits all over the lampholder. You may non want to do that, either because the lampholders in your country are not 29mm diam, or because you'd prefer the bulb to be on an axis of rotational symmetry, operating theatre you'd rather it was at the centre of the spherical specter as an alternative of near the top. At that place are solutions to those issues.

For a little lampholder, it may be possible to use a optical maser-cut plywood ring of the correct diameter under the central void of indefinite of the elements, to trap it in place when the lamp shade retaining ring is tightened. Other than, merely alter the central void of one chemical element to make it a Mexican valium of the appropriate size. That method should also bring on for larger lampholders, as long as they aren't too big.

Another solution is to occupy the flex from the ceiling rose through and through the sphere, so that the lampholder and light bulb are in the midriff of it. To exercise that you'll need to expand the hole in either the long pegleg of each of 5 elements, or the midway short wooden leg of for each one of 3, to allow the flex to mountain pass through the centre of a 5- or 3-element radical as an alternative of using a go off. The five or three legs still need to follow held together to keep the ball-shaped shape, and they need to grip the flex to forestall the shade off sliding down it. A suitable overseas telegram secretory organ (clamping, strain moderation type) could make up used to handgrip the wooden leg ends together and keep them at the chastise height above the pendant lampholder, but IT bequeath need to possess a rib section long sufficient to cope with all the plywood layers.

The solution I went for, which I think is the neatest and also makes dynamical the electric-light bulb relatively slowly, is to shorten the long leg of 5 elements to make them stumpier, so make a 5-legged spider that these stumpy legs wish tie in to alternatively of connecting to each other. The spider has a inner jam through which the pendant turn passes. In my first version I fitted a cable gland onto the flex below the spider to support the weight of the shade so that the lampholder arse be positioned to place the bulb in its centre. Ulterior, I trained down the hole to assume the threaded body of the gland itself, which looks better. A 13mm hole is suitable for a PG7 secretory organ.

The DXF and PDF files attached to this step are for the chunky element and the wanderer with a 13mm central hole. The spider can be removed aside undoing the bolts copulative IT to 4 of the 5 stumpy elements, bountiful access to the lampholder, and the resulting gap in the welki is big enough for a 55mm diam bulb to squeeze through.

IT May be possible to do something similar at a three-element junction rather, but I doubt IT with my design of element because the leg that leads to the widest corner of the kite is already short.

Be the First to Share

Recommendations

  • Anything Goes Repugn 2022

    Anything Goes Contest 2022